Lewis and Clark Caverns Spring Trip

When I began thinking about what do and where to go this Memorial Day Weekend I was really hoping to get on some water somewhere..anywhere.  I schemed up this grand plan to go somewhere I can't remember going and where my girls have never gone, Lewis and Clark Caverns along the Jefferson River.  I've never spent time in this part of the state and my only reference was maps, Google Earth, and various websites about the Jefferson River Canoe Trail.  I was excited to get a reservation at the state park and went about trying to figure out how to do our shuttle.  I thought the road to a bridge 9 miles down from the camp area looked remote and totally safe for the girls and I to ride our bikes along to do our shuttle.  Easy, we could just leave Skip at camp and take the boat down to the launch, drive the car to the bridge and ride home.

As the weeks went on and I told people my plan I got some looks, concerned looks, some questions, "Are you sure you can ride that far?"  It wasn't until my Mom gave me the "your going to kill me" look that I conceded that the river part of this trip wasn't going to pan out.  It finally got warm in Montana and the rivers were flowing.  After getting to camp I was sure glad we made the decision to just camp, hike, and bike for the weekend.  Lessons learned.

Our neighbor, Kendall, is like a sister to my two girls.  I was packing up the car and she somehow convinced her mom and I to let her "stow away" on our weekend camp trip.  Three girls, one dog, three bikes, a packed car, we were set.


The campground was a little bit of a disappointment.  We had the only site in the whole place without any shade.  I do recommend using Reserve America for state parks but I don't recommend site P006!  It was hot and horrible setting up our tents.  We left soon after setting up to find a spot to put our feet in the river.  At my "takeout bridge" we got firewood and cooled off in the flooded backwater..again so glad we didn't raft.  Then into Three Forks in search for ice-cream.  We made it back to camp just in time to batten down the hatches, throw together food, and head for our tents.  It was an awesome storm!  After the rain cleared there were some great trails right off the campground for hiking and mountain bike riding.

The next day we hit the L & C Cavern tour. What a great experience for the girls! They even have kennels for no extra cost for the dogs in a shaded place.  It's a two mile hike in total starting with a trek up to the entrance.  Avery and Kendall were glued to the tour guide's side right off the bat, Kyndra and I had to push our way to the front to be with them.  They hung on every word he said, asked great questions, and had a blast.  After the tour we went to the Missouri River Headwaters State Park.  The girls were totally unimpressed but I thought it was pretty awesome seeing the roiling, muddy waters.  The water looks so different than what we see on the Missouri around here.

Before we knew it we were packing up camp.  Kyndra helped roll pads, bags, and tents while the other two played at the campground.  It all goes together pretty easily with exception of putting the bikes on the rack. If anyone knows how to do this without throwing a hissy fit I'd be grateful!  Before heading home we walked/biked along the Headwaters Trail System that runs along the former Milwaukee Railroad bed.

We had a fun weekend hiking, getting some sun, and exploring.  I can't wait to go back and tackle the rivers over in this part of our beautiful state.

Kings Hill Recreation

If you live in or around Great Falls you've probably been winter recreating around Kings Hill area.  We spent some time last weekend sledding and snowshoeing with some friends and wanted to share some tips.

It was windy and blustery as only Montana can be but the kids didn't seem to be as disturbed by as it as I always imagine they will be.  We were on our way to meet the gals in White Sulfur Springs when my girls spotted Jazmyn's pink coat on the hill sledding.  They were into their snow pants and before I knew it headed up the hill.

Tip #1:  Dress them warm and don't tell them how badly you want to stay in the car out of the weather.

Tip #2:  If they want to take their hat or gloves off...let them (I learned this from other smart moms...it's not my hands freezing off!)

Tip #3:  Let them pull their own sled up that steep hill.

Tip #4: Let them just be cute and hold their sled if they don't want to hike up.

We stayed at the Tenderfoot Motel in White Sulfur.  They have very cozy remodeled cabins right across the street from the hot springs. The owners were very hospitable and even cooked us all a waffle breakfast in the morning.  We will definitely try to stay there again.

On to Silver Crest Winter Trails

If you have been here before you know there are pretty nice trails at Silver Crest for snowshoeing, skiing, snowmobiling, and dog sledding.

This is a nice map of the area.

You are not suppose to bring dogs on these trails and snowshoes are frowned upon on the skiing trails!

The snowshoeing trail is only about 2 miles for the whole loop and there are a lot of options for shorter treks if needed with younger kids.  There is a restroom at the trial head!  Bonus!

There are a couple of spots where the wind might pick up but for the most part it's protected by the trees. On the snowshoe loop there is one overlook with a couple of benches but no shelters available yet.

You can check out snowshoes at the Forest Service office in Great Falls for as long as three days. There is no charge for the check out!  What an awesome service.

We love this place but have recently heard about Jefferson Creek snowshoeing where we can take our dog, Skip.  Hopefully we can get out there with a map before the snow melts. 

Get out and do this great trail with kids!  It's easy, close, and fun in the snow!

Lost Lake

It's been a very long time since I've put up a blog post.  I've been just doing Face Book I guess...or nothing.  Where do you start when you are so far behind with pictures and stories?  I was going to have Kyndra start posting some of their pictures from the summer with captions but we are only half through the 1000 she took!  I guess you start today...now.

I've been wanting to go to the Shonkin Sag since I moved home.  The first year I tried to go but it was a terribly wet spring and the bridge to Lost Lake Road was blown out by the little creek.  I haven't made it back but it turns out I was almost there.  I took the girls and a couple of friends on an  adventure today.  Unfortunately the camera batteries were not very charged and we ran short.  I did get a few fun shots that I'd like to share.

Getting out of the car we were hit by the hot wind.  It was almost 85 today and dry as a bone.  There were some hoo-doo's right off the road that I couldn't talk any ladies to climb on, yet, next time.

The Shonkin Sag is a remnant of the Ice Age. This website tells you more than I could ever possibly know about the formation.  I know it's amazing, big, steep, and a little scary.

Its a long drop down!  Lost Lake is surrounded on three sides by steep walls that beg to be climbed.  I did see some climbing bolts...hmm.  We had a great hike around the rocks, a picnic, and nobody fell off!

On the ride home we hit the Carter Ferry again.  I can't believe I was born and raised in this country and never even knew this fascinating place existed...or the ferry for that mater.  We will go back, maybe in the spring when the water will be flowing over the edge.  If you live in Great Falls and have never been to the Sag, go!  You won't be disappointed. 

Snowshoeing = Giggles

We headed up to Kings Hill area today to find some snow!  It was a fantastic, sunny day in Montana. The snow was perfect, the sun was warm, laughter was in the air.  We are so fortunate. 

The giggles were a plenty for the first half mile or so.  I've never seen the girls so carefree...so easy to laugh at themselves and share laughter with each other.

Kyndra was the map reader and had it memorized, telling me the direction we had to go at every turn.

What an amazing day in an amazing place.  

 Skip pulled us along.

He is one inspiring little dog.  We have fallen head over heals in love with him.

I must add that he is not the "special needs" dog I thought we were adopting.  

Every day his leg gets stronger.  He only got away twice on this adventure.

The second time Avery made the dive to catch his leash :)

There was no whining or complaining on this adventure.

These girls are strong and happy...what more can a mom ask?

This pictures captures so much it makes me cry every time I look at it.  It captures fun, friendship, and adventure.  I am overwhelmed with love when I look at the two of them together.  Life is good folks...life is good.

Beautiful Bentonite

Open doors to let the wind blow through.

We have spent the last week south of Glasgow, Montana looking at several BLM areas.  We have covered over 1000 miles this week already.  Miles that were mainly on paved “roads,” “ways,” and “two-tracks.”  I’ve learned those designations are very important in determining the use, intent, and management of an area as well as how to judge the difference.  At the moment we are sitting in a truck, parked on a ridge, getting wind-blown by the blast-furnace of Mother Nature, watching a storm build. 

I have such an appreciation for the people who live and work in this land.  It is wild and dry, with hard bentonite soil that is as unforgiving when wet as it is when dry.  The farmers and ranchers are challenged with knowing when to drive on which roads, when that perfect time is to harvest and work the land, and how to move the cattle through the numerous drainages.

Sunset at our camp on Fort Peck Reservoir 

Much of this area borders the Charles M Russell Nature Preserve.  Its landscape makes up the Missouri River Breaks along the Fort Peck Reservoir.  This area is prime hunting ground for elk, big-horn sheep, mule deer, and antelope.  However, the antelope and white-tail deer suffered almost a 95% reduction in their populations during the winter of 2010-11.  The highline saw record amounts of snow that year.  So much snow that the only way the animals could move around was to use the rail-road tracks which were maintained.  Hundreds of pronghorn (antelope) were killed at a time when the trains came through.  The next spring the white-tail deer suffered a disease called blue-tongue which truly devastated their herds in this area.  The loss is evident as we have seen a handful of pronghorn or deer when we should be seeing hundreds a day.   

Bentonite hill sides

Bentonite….bentonite is the dark, hard, cracking, dry soil that comprises much of this landscape.  As I look over landscape much of it is bentonite bad-lands.  We passed an abandoned bentonite mine that we were told hauled one load before closing down.  This soil is tough when dry, and clay-like when wet.  It can absorb as much as several times its dry mass in water and makes a perfect seal when wet.  It is used in products such as kitty-litter as well as for the lining of bore holes for mining.  My grandma said they used it to line a reservoir on “the farm” in Chester.  We experienced firsthand the power of this substance when we sunk to the axel of Tony’s truck while trying to cross a creek crossing we thought was dry.  It took us upwards of 2 hours of literally digging the clay by hand out from under the axel to get us out.  As we were working there was a perfect sunset and full moon rising that we missed…of course.  I also can’t believe we didn’t get a photo of the whole ordeal.  All we have left is the clay caked on my Keens, clumps that will forever be stuck to the underside of the rig, and the lesson I’m sure many hunters and ranchers have learned in this area…always test the solidity of the ground when driving across bentonite! 

These rock "bubbles" are whats left after the bentonite erodes away.  Beautiful tubular formations!

Ti-pi rings looking over the wild prairie.

We are finding some cultural artifacts but wish we had more time to explore the hillsides.  Tony found a bi-face and we did run across this fairly large establishment of "ti-pi rings."  The sad thing is that there is a bladed road right through the middle of this encampment and I'm sure it's been looted thousands of times.  

We are now home for a few days trying to catch up and start working on our reports and maps.  Anyone know ArcMap?  Ugh!  My brain is being flexed with this darn program for sure!  Next stop…the Musselshell River area.  I can’t wait!

Spring Pishkun

There is much to love about the First People's Buffalo Jump (Ulm Pishkun) but what I think I enjoy the most is the wide open views of the countryside that sets my spirits on fire!  Square Butte, the Rocky Mountain Front, the Missouri and Sun River Valley's, and the prairie all in one 360 degree view.  

We took a little trip out there yesterday...note the shorts?  Today there is about 2" of snow on the ground...gotta love it!

My girls spent the first part of the trip telling their friend how to handle a rattlesnake sighting.  We did see one last time we were here so it wasn't unfounded.  I loved listening to my little snake experts.

They aren't as close to the edge as it looks.  Imagine for a minute what it would have sounded, looked, smelled, and felt like to be running a heard of buffalo to this spot where the earth drops off.

Amazing!

My photo doesn't do this view justice...its breathtaking. 

I like to call these "Montana Tide Pools." 

There is so much to discover at the Pishkun.  On this one trip, the wildlife consisted of several marmots, prairie dogs, an eagle, rabbits, and a porcupine!    

Look how close Tony was getting to him!! 

Fun day...now snow...I'm glad we got out while we could.

Winter Fair Fiddlers

This was a big weekend for the girls.  They participated in their first fiddle contest at the Montana Winter Fair!  We all learned a lot through this whole process.  There were three rounds for both girls.  Each round had to have a hoedown, a waltz, and a song of choice.  Kyndra had to know new songs for each round while Avery could play the same three songs if she wanted to.  We had no clue where to go when, who to talk to about what, or what needed to be done by whom.

Tony, Jaida, Mom, Kyndra, Avery, and I all made the journey down for the weekend.  We just missed a snow storm the night before and a clear drive down.  We arrived early to warm up and ask someone to accompany them during their performances.  We found this very nice man, Ray, to play for them and they joined the other participants in the "bar" area to practice.  What a crazy noisy fun thing!  All the participants find their corner and run through their songs a time or two before it's their turn on stage.

Avery woke up forgetting one of her songs.  We played with the music during warm up and we thought she had it down.  She was the second performer of the day, the little sweetheart, and she did forget where she was and fumbled a little through the song.  She didn't cry, she finished, and she wasn't the only one who lost the notes in their head up on stage before the judges and audience.

They both got to play all three rounds and made it trough with shining colors.  There were some squeaks and forgotten notes, and missed fingers, but they did it!  They did it and I couldn't be more proud.

We stayed at the "Yoyo" (Tony's name for the Yogo Inn) and swam, ate some good food in town and listened to some talented folks from Montana, North Dakota, Idaho, and I'm sure more places that I didn't catch.   This video shows most of the music they played with some cut out.  It's still a very long video, I apologize..I couldn't help it.



When I asked them what they liked best about the weekend they said the fiddle contest!  So that's a good sign!  I'm having one of those really peaceful, happy moments...life truly is good!

Last Weekend

I get sort of melancholy thinking about our last weekend before school started.  I could tell you what we did, where we went, and who we saw...surface stuff...or I can tell you some deeper thoughts.  I can't get the word "friends" out of my mind.  What makes a friend and companion?  Is it history?  Is it vicinity? Is it common interest?  Is it all or none of those things?  

I'm a social person...I've always felt surrounded by friends in spirit even if not in person.  Lately I've been feeling a little alone...not really in a bad way...it's my job, the girls being gone, etc.  I'm finding out what it's like to really enjoy my own company and take part in today no matter who is actively involved in my "today."  

I spent most of my summer with Tony or in his Gallery visiting with strangers and listening to their adventures in the majestic place called Glacier.  I didn't have to take care of kids, I didn't have to work, I didn't have to clean...I just had to visit and "be."  It was regenerating.  

Here are some of my thoughts on what a friend is:

A friend will wade into the deepest waters with you with a smile on their face.

A friend will hold the tip of the boat down and push you through the waves as you bail water.
 A friend will allow you to shine and in that act...shine themselves.

 A friend can be old, brand new, younger, or older and never share the same talents or interests as long as you are both willing to play each other's games every once in awhile.  

 A friend will share the load...no matter how dirty it may be.

A friend let you know if you are wallowing in the bitter times if it means giving you strength and perspective to enjoy the sweetness life has to offer.

 A friend will let you stand in solitary if necessary...but will never leave you alone.

It was another fabulous weekend with Tony exploring Montana.  We were lucky to be joined by Jeff and his fun boys who are the same age as my girls.  They hit it off and were playing within 10 minutes of being introduced.  I can't tell you how proud and full my heart is right now...being a mom is good...being a friend is good...being able to experience these times is priceless.